Enchanting Dubrovnik, Croatia
Journey down the Dalmation Coast and the streets of DubrovnikBy Josh Faircloth
The echoes of explosions swept through the medieval cobbled streets as thick black plumes of smoke 
billowed up over the red tiled rooftops. The white stone clock tower struggled against the onslaught to keep eye over the city that now laid partially in ruin at its feet. In December 1991, Yugoslav forces pounded the beloved Croatian city of Dubrovnik with a series of artillery bombardments that destroyed large portions of the old city center. Many were left doubtfully wondering if this UNESCO World Heritage site would ever regain its former beauty. Seventeen years later, scars from the war are still noticeable to the observant eye, but the previous question has largely been answered.
The city of Dubrovnik, which sits steadfast along the shores of the Adriatic, has been charming visitors ever since the thirteenth century. It’s possible to get there by plane or on a cushy cruise ship, but those who really want to see Croatia and all its glory take a car or bus along the five hour route down the curvaceous Dalmatian coastline.
Out the window, the waters of the Adriatic cozily nestle in between chains of lush green barrier islands and a mountain range that crashes down to the shore, expectantly awaiting the aqua-marine tide. The trip passes by an alternating arrangement of quaint villages and poverty-ridden housing projects, giving testament to the country’s checkered economic landscape.
Don’t worry about booking a hotel in advance. As the buses roll into the station, plenty of people, predominately older women, form a line alongside the bus that quickly breaks down into a mosh pit of sales pitches for their spare bedroom as the visitors file off. Each 
one politely asks in broken English for you to come home with them.
I told each of them, "No. Thank you.", but one particular older woman was persistent. Either having not understood my answer the first two times, or in an attempt at breaking my will, she asked for a final third time. I felt disappointed in myself for not being able to accept her offer. Why couldn’t I accept her accommodations?
Okay, I admit it. I booked ahead, not having known they were waiting for me before I even got there. Fortunately, my conscience was saved when my host pulled into the station in his seemingly decades old car to pick us up. He politely helped us with our bags and asked about the trip while weaving his way up backstreets that ascended the steep slope up the mountain and shortly pulled into the driveway of his home. He introduced us to his family, including his two sons, whom I presume helped him list the room on the internet. After settling in, we began the short trek to the old city.
Dubrovnik’s famous old city, teetering right up against the water’s edge, is surrounded by towering grey stone walls emerging from the depths of a moat which flows with traffic rather than water. Through multiple entrances penetrating the formidable perimeter into the city, each offering its own brilliantly sculpted archway or narrow stair-studded alley, the town opens up to its visitors.
The main street is paved with smoothly shaped and polished square stones that delicately mimic the exterior walls. The Sidewalk cafes seem filled with people all day long who sit and relax to a gentle serenade of chirps from a swarm of swallows that fly just overhead.
During my visit, I found that just after dark was the perfect time to meander through the streets of the old city. 
The daily crowd of tourists gives way to a subtle excitement beneath the mysteriously lit building facades. Restaurants on the main street can be pricey, but step off into the enchanting alleyways and there are plenty of establishments eager to serve.
We quickly found an arrangement of picnic tables set up along a side street. Upon sitting down, the young waiter came over and took our orders. He brought out a steaming platter of fresh shrimp and fish that was so delicious, each bite made you impatient for the next. We washed it down with a glass of deep red wine that matched the awning over each table. The sound of live music floated through the thick air from just around the corner, so we paid our bill and set off in search of the source.
One thing that makes the old city in Dubrovnik unique is the picture perfect beach nestled right outside its powerful walls. The smooth white stones that cover the shore make for a beautiful scene as they reflect the light through the teal green water. Unfortunately, they are much easier on the eyes than on the feet, so wearing sandals or water shoes is advised.
There are beach chairs set up for lounging and a bar serving refreshing drinks. From an outcrop of rocks along the edge of the beach, swimmers can watch the waves roll against the walls of the old city and into the boat-filled harbor just before diving off a board into the cool water below.
Dubrovnik is a wonderful historic city in a country whose recent history is not nearly as peaceful as the landscape. The road of recovery from the civil war is long and has not yet reached its end. Despite this, the resiliency and beauty of the city and the people who call it home make it easy to justify its nickname, "The Pearl of the Adriatic."
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