Page 4 of 4Day Three
The third day we were in the boat by 8 am again, ready to for our first Open Water training dive at Spotted Bay. The conditions were perfect: calm and warm, partly cloudy, with visibility 20 meters. The water temperature was a warm 28 C.
We lunched at Pigeon Key - one of the keys southwest of Utila. A key is basically a small island. As far as I could tell, this was the sole restaurant on the tiny island. Since all of the houses are on stilts, I ate my lunch over the water. It was L.18 ($1.30) for a fish sandwich and a Coke. The restrooms here are another adventure: four walls and a door in the corner with a hole in the floor looking down to the water.
We took our second open water training dive at Jack Neil Point. We went 12 meters deep and spent 40 minutes in the water. We returned to our rooms at 1 p.m. where we relaxed on the deck watching videos 4 and 5 and reviewing what we'd learned.
Day Four
On the boat again by 8 am, we had our third open water training dive at Red Cliff. The current was strong, and the weather warm and sunny with visibility of 12 meters. We dove for 40 minutes at a depth of 18 meters in 28 C water. A barracuda swam about 4 feet over my head. I didn't see it, but Eddie did, signaled to me to turn around, an as I did, I saw a long, skinny, silvery fish with big teeth just behind me. I was floating on my back as I watched him swim away.
Our fourth open water dive was at Airport Roof. We dove at a depth of 18 meters again, spent 40 minutes in the water, and saw schools of fish and a large moree eel. We returned by 1 pm, ate dinner, and finished our final exams.
Day Five
Now certified to scuba dive, we signed up for free dives and set out in the afternoon, leaving at 1:30. Our first dive was at Rig Rock in Jack Neil Bay. The day was cloudy, but the water was clam, and we could see for 10 meters. At about 60 feet deep I saw massive lobsters. The next dive, at Laguna Beach Bay, named after the only private luxury resort on Utila, lasted 43 minutes. For a heart stopping few of them I was spied upon by at huge, menacing moree eel. Ten inches in diameter, it peered out at me from a crevice in the vertical rock face in the manner of a provincial guarding his home country against strangers.
Hiking in Utila, Honduras
Should you wish to break even farther away from civilization on Utila, the island's north side offers excellent opportunities for day hikes. You can traverse the island in two and a half-hours on a dirt road, during which you will escape the smell of fish that clings to the shore, and be able to breathe fresh air and feel the breeze. The population of this part of the island is made up mostly of small birds and lizards so tiny they can fit in the palm of your hand. When I looked out over the landscape, watching the tall grasses and trees pregnant with fruit, I felt removed from everything.
The North coast of Utila
Lodging in Utila, Honduras
I stayed at Cross Creek, where I was certified to dive. For $3.00 a night, the room was an experiment in minimalism. Small and clean, it had 2 new single beds, a rustic shower (pipe sticking out of the wall with a turn knob spigot), a medicine cabinet, and a clothes rack. Shiny varnish covered all 6 sides of the small box's wooden construction. The room, like the thirteen others at this hotel, had a fan, which alleviated a fraction of the oppressive heat. Fortunately, Cross Creek has a huge deck outside with hammocks on which you can relax and try to cool off
.
Jonny in one of the tiny $3/night wooden rooms
Most other rooms on the island in this $3 category are the same. If you crave air conditioning, check out the Mango Inn. They have several different types of accomodations - private rooms, shared cabanas, etc. Prices are expensive for Utila, but still rather cheap compared to the US or Europe; somewhere between $15-25 USD a night.
Just make sure to take precautions against the sand flies. These minute insects don't hurt you when bitten, but start itching the next day. If you can handle the heat, wear long pants and a long sleeve shirt to minimize bites. If you're like me and would rather hang out in shorts, sandals and a T-shirt, make sure to use plenty of insect repellent. Sand flies are the worst during dawn and dusk and when there is no wind.
The
deck at our hotel
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