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Visiting the Maya Ruins of Copan, Honduras

By Jennifer Voigt

Quick Facts

Destination: Copan, Honduras
Activities
: Visiting pyramid ruins, hiking, horseback riding
When: June 13 - 16, 1999
($1 USD = L.14)
Cost: $85 USD for food, lodging, admission to ruins, and bus to and from San Pedro Sula
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Scuba Diving at Utila, Honduras
Beach Activities of Tela and La Ceiba, Honduras

star Copan Pictures, Maya Pyramids Photos

Transportation from San Pedro Sula, Honduras to Copan, Honduras via Bus

Direct buses for Copan leave San Pedro Sula at 2 PM and 3 PM from the intersection of 6A/6C (SO) daily. There are other options, but they take much longer and the cost difference is negligible. I left at 2:05 on a bus that still had plenty of room, a happy circumstance that allowed me to stretch out occasionally during the 3 hour ride. The fare was L.50 (3.60 USD). Lush green mountains flank the road on both sides of the road.

The drive has a rural flavor, derived mostly from the absence of large numbers of houses, and the striking beauty of the countryside. A light and constant rain began to fall about the time we stopped at La Entrada, two hours into the trip. From here, the road becomes increasingly more curvy, and the terrain more mountainous, and small landslides, no doubt caused by the rain, slowed our progress.

General Copan Info

After witnessing the beauty of the mountains on the trip up to Copan, I was pleased to see that the city itself retains quite a bit of charm. A small town, its residents will greet you on the (still cobblestone!) streets with a smile if you say "hola" (hello) or "buenos" (short form of "good day"). The people here talk more slowly than do the Hondurans in other, more populous areas, a habit indicative of Copan’s relative remoteness.
Large coffee plantations surround Copan, and the growers are among the region’s wealthiest residents. You can see a direct result of the world’s affection for the drink when they come to town in their brand new pickup trucks.

bus on cobblestone street

A "directo" (direct/express) bus waiting on one of the cobblestone streets of Copan

In addition to coffee, the region around Copan also supports tobacco and corn crops. Unlike the coffee growers, most of the region’s inhabitants – mostly Mestizo (mixed race) and Chorti Indians – hold down two jobs to survive. However, poverty here does not mean crime-ridden. Copan is relatively free of crime – so much so that local residents talk about how dangerous Tela and San Pedro Sula are.

Copan is a wonderful place to go when you need to escape the heat of coastal Honduras. June is the off-season for tourists, but the weather couldn’t be more refreshing after Utila’s sweltering sun. The temperature was appreciably cooler than Utila when I was there – probably between 85 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Indeed, the weather cools off so much that during the night I had to turn off the fan in my room. The rains begin almost like clockwork at 2 PM each day and continue for only about an hour.

coffee field

Coffee and tobacco fields in Copan, the building on the left is one of the many tobacco ovens in the region

If the trip up to Copan whets your appetite for more beautiful scenery, you may want to visit El Ruby, a small but gorgeous waterfall in the area. There is also a hot spring near Copan. Either trip will take almost a whole day. You can pay for a private pickup to take you there, otherwise the transportation is a bit imprecise – you have to wait by the side of the road for a bus.

Copan has a bank adjacent to the central park that will probably suit all of your banking needs while in the area. It’s open between from between 8 am until 4 pm, with the exception of the daily siesta from Noon to 1 pm.

Film is rather expensive in Copan. After some searching, I found Kodak 36/400 film for L.63 (4.50 USD) at one of the quaint drug stores. I warn against bringing an Advantix camera. The film is even more expensive and must be sent to the U.S. to be processed, a month-long wait. Luxuries like film may be expensive, but water in Copan is cheaper than other places. Here, I usually paid L.10 (.70 USD) for 1.5 liters.

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